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Ib Kamara titled his fall show for Off-White “State of Resistance.” The brand was famous for championing the Black community under its late founder Virgil Abloh, who launched initiatives like the “I Support Young Black Businesses” project and the Virgil Abloh “Post Modern” Scholarship Fund for Black fashion students. But the political climate has changed since Abloh passed away in 2021, and few designers now venture to use the runway as a platform for their positions. Kamara acknowledged as much in his show notes, which emphasized the community spirit and inclusive vision at the heart of the brand. “I envision Off-White as a society of individuals of all ages, races and walks of life, striving to express their true selves while bonding and helping one another, sharing values and visions,” he wrote. You May Also Like “In the odds of contemporary life, this stance might come across as confrontational, probably; defiant, even. And yet, I see it essentially a claim of what being in the world with other humans means. It is not always easy to live life according to these principles. Strength and perseverance are mandatory,” he added. One of Abloh’s close collaborators, Kamara was born in Sierra Leone, taking refuge with relatives in Gambia during the country’s 11-year civil war, before settling in London when he was 16. His coed lineup blended influences from his cross-cultural upbringing with the American symbols that were Abloh’s natural language. Born in Rockford, Ill., he had made athletic gear a cornerstone of Off-White. Kamara offered new spins in the shape of coats with linebacker shoulders and varsity letters spelling out the initials “OO” on the back. Biker jackets inspired coats with aerodynamic paneling, and matching parkas and shorts with utilitarian details. He subverted traditional uniforms with ribbed panels or graphic motifs inspired by the star and eagles of Ghana’s national emblem. Backstage, Kamara explained he wore a uniform at school in the U.K. and viewed them as symbols of unity and protection. At the end of the day, fans of the label likely won’t read too much into the distressed denim, clingy jersey dresses and buckled boots with little side pockets for emergency supplies, like the ones worn by Nigerian Afrobeat star Burna Boy to close the show. Collection Gallery 51 Photos View Gallery And maybe that’s the point: people all over the world dress the same anyway. “If you open your Instagram, it’s all a melting pot of culture,” Kamara told WWD. “We all wear jerseys, we all wear denims. We all wear second skins because it’s comfortable.”
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